This post has been updated.
Name an iconic dish, and you’re likely to find factions of fans debating that theirs is better. New York- or Chicago-style pizza; New England- or Manhattan-style clam chowder; or the proper style of barbecue, with Kansas, North Carolina and Texas among the states claiming superiority.
And then, there are lobster rolls.
There are also dueling lobster-roll-loving factions: the Connecticut-style fans and the Maine-style lovers. The former is served warm, the lobster meat generously drizzled with melted butter, while the latter is the veritable zenith of summer flavors: chilled lobster salad in a warm, just-toasted bun. I don’t want to denigrate anyone’s favorite way to “roll,” but it is the Maine-style one I want to write sonnets about.
After immigrating from Russia, I grew up in Massachusetts, and those formative years instilled a deep love for a Maine-style lobster roll. Every summer, I looked forward to sitting at those A-frame picnic tables, with their built-in benches, covered with red-gingham tablecloths, and taking that first-of-the-season bite of cool, creamy lobster salad inside a just-off-the-grill, slightly crisp, buttery bun. The contrast of temperatures, textures and flavors remains one of those taste memories you can spend a lifetime chasing.
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Proust had his madeleines — I have my lobster rolls.
But, as I got older and my taste buds got more discerning, I started to notice that my platonic ideal of a lobster roll was not the norm, but rather the exception. Often, the lobster meat would be upstaged by too much mayo, heavy and bland; or there would be no crunchy celery, and without it, there wasn’t enough texture to yield a truly summery sandwich.
Guided by memories of that elusive lobster roll, I knew there was a way to achieve that dreamy result — the perfect balance of luscious meat, crunch and bright flavors.
Crisp celery delivers the crunch and refreshing, herbaceous cool. Lemon juice and zest give the lobster meat a sunny lift and enhance its sweet, buttery flavor. And a subtle kick from Dijon mustard — a trick I picked up working with chef Marc Murphy — adds dimension to the salad.
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Finally, mayonnaise in a supporting role — used sparingly — binds the ingredients together.
I like to steam my own lobsters. It’s easy and makes lobster rolls a lot more affordable — three small lobsters make enough for six rolls. After 15 minutes in the freezer, the lobsters get sleepy, at which point I place them in a large pot with a few inches of boiling water and a steamer basket. After the cooked lobsters are thoroughly chilled, I crack their shells and pick out their meat. (I use the remaining shells and carcasses to make a lobster stock to stretch the pricey ingredient and use the stock to flavor bouillabaisse, risotto or bisque.)
The bun is as important as the salad. If you’re a lover of butter, consider upgrading to brioche hot dog buns, as they’ll elevate the roll to luxurious. If, however, you long for a classic lobster roll, a split-top bun is what you want. Toast it in the broiler — I like to use a little melted butter to crisp it up — then pile chilled lobster salad on top and eat right away.
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With that first bite, I’m transported to New England beaches with sky-high dunes, cool breezes off the Atlantic and cloudless skies — even if this summer I’m nowhere near them.
Maine-Style Lobster Rolls
Storage: Leftover lobster salad can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days.
Make ahead: The mayonnaise dressing can be made up to 1 day ahead and refrigerated in an airtight container. The lobster salad can be prepared up to 3 days in advance and refrigerated. The lobster needs to be steamed and well-chilled before being shelled — at least 2 hours ahead of serving.
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